Posted by: catamarantwooceans | December 3, 2008

Golfito – Costa Rica

1.12.08 – 0130, I woke up, probably because I did not hear the rain hitting the roof. Peeked out and saw the halo of David lights in the distance. This meant good visibility! My mind started calculating; If we go right now we could reach Golfito in daylight. I woke Avner up and in 15 minutes we were motoring out. At night we had some small birds taking shelter under our bimini. As we went out two of them were asleep on their chosen perch. Fearing that they were territorial and would have a problem finding themselves far away from their home island, I nudged them gently, woke them up, they went on my finger and flew away.

our winged visitors

our winged visitors

No wind, but mercifully no rain. It came again for a while later on but not as bad as we had it in the days before. We rounded Punta Burica, where the border between Panama and Costa Rica passes and followed the coast to Golfito. In the afternoon the wind came and we sailed at close to 8 knots, dropping the anchor at 1630. Golfito is a big bay with a narrow entrance, it is very protected and has three small marinas. We anchored opposite “Land-Sea” marina, run by Katie and Tim and reputed to be “cruiser friendly”.

Golfito in sunshine

Golfito in sunshine

By the way, I found a sailing guide for Central America one can download in PDF form from the web. It seems to be very good and is inexpensive relative to the paper guides; It’s on www.sailsarana.com .

As we finished anchoring we saw a lone figure in a rowing dinghy – Jens! The guy I met in Shelterbay marina in Colon. It so nice seeing people you met along the way! Jens told us about a local restaurant, a short taxi ride out of town, run by Mike, a native of Hungary and his local wife. Hungarian food in Costa Rica! We agreed to meet there at 1900 and when Jens showed up with some more Canadian cruisers an hour later we learned that there was an hour’s difference between the Panama and Costa Rica clock. Oh well…

2.12.08 – Sometime during the night I woke up, opened the hatch and looked up. Lo and behold! Stars shone brilliantly in the heavens , a sight I have not seen for more than a week!

Half a day was spent on doing the formal entry clearance: Immigration, Aduana (customs) Veterinary service (42$ for not inspecting the boat) and at the end the harbour master. I asked Tim about the possibility of leaving “Two Oceans” on a mooring in his care and it turned out we could do it and even a bit cheaper than in Puntarenas. This took a big load off my chest, because we were really pressed for time if we wanted to go all the way to the other place. In the evening we invited Jens for dinner and during it he told us an amazing dolphin story. While he was crossing the Atlantic eastbound from Bermuda to the Azores he encountered wind right on the nose. He had to decide between tack to the north or to the south and chose the former. In a short period of time a pod of dolphins joined him, jumping and swimming ahead of his boat, while all the time turning to the south. Two of them jumped a few times from left to the right. Jens felt as if they were signalling him to go south. He tacked and continued sailing. He later found out that a Hurricane passed to his north and that had he been going the other way he would have been hit by the full force of it! Gili and I had a similar experience in Turkey a few years ago and just as Jens does, I believe in a special connection between these beautiful creatures and us, humans.

man best friend?

man best friend?

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