Posted by: catamarantwooceans | April 19, 2013

Sailing the Maldives–part 3

14.4.13 – Sunday – Just after I’ve finished writing the previous post, we were having drinks in the cockpit with Liz and Jamie of yacht "Esper" ( when my cellphone gave out the sound of an incoming SMS. It was from Muki Mazursky, who together with his wife Hanna and another guy named Ishay Itzkin, were supposed to join me the next day. The guys were taking a cheap and long flight to Male, going through Paris and Colombo in Sri Lanka. The flight from Tel Aviv to Paris was delayed and they lost the connection to Colombo. They had no idea as to when their arrival to Male would occur. Hanna, whose flight had just one stop will come as planned.

15.4.13 – Monday – Going to and from Hulmale and Male airport is complicated, requiring prior coordination with a special taxi company. Gili managed to get there just in time to find Hanna and bring her to the boat. The wind was westerly at not more than 12 knots but it raised a cop in the lagoon, making life on the boat unpleasant and going ashore a bit of a circus act.

The three of us went to Male to start provisioning for the coming trip. Male is a busy, congested town with a lot of Mopeds roaring and seemingly attacking you from all direction. Islam is very present, with a big Mosque, traditionally dressed women and signs on shops declaring: "Closed at prayer time".

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There are a few good shops around, like STO store and the small Seagull store which had all the frozen stuff we wanted. I also found two chandleries: Seagull Marine and D Blue marine. Taxi drivers know everything and all rides cost 20 Rufia about 1.3$.

In the evening I took Gili to Male and watched her board the ferry to the airport on her way home.

Message from Muki: they will come on the 16th at 1430. I’ll have to re-plan the trip.

16.4.13 – Tuesday – Hanna and I did some more shopping and then waited for the arrival of the guys. When they came it was minus one of Muki’s bags which got misplaced on one of the flights they took., It was the one with the wine, coffee and sesame paste (tehini) …

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A few words about the new crew members: Hanna is an immunologist, doing clinical research for the biggest health organizations in Israel. She loves all forms of tourism and although not a sailor, she did sail several trips in the Med and the Caribbean.

Muki, 63 years old, is a very long time sailor; started as a kid in the marine section of a sports organization in the north of Israel, served in the Israeli navy and then studied Industrial Management engineering. His professional life was in IT mainly in development. During the years he sailed a lot all over. The couple spent a few years working and living in the U.S. They have three children and three grandchildren.

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Ishay, 59 years old, is an independent printed circuit designer who lately started manufacturing decorative gadgets for computers. Married to Shlomit, they have four children and two grandchildren. He started sailing in 2008 and as he says he is crazy about the sea and sailing.

After a bit of acclimatization we all went ashore and had dinner at "Symphony", recommended by Lonely Planet" to have good Indian food. The promise became true; good inexpensive food is what yachties yearn for.

17.4.13 – Wednesday – I asked my agent to arrange the delivery of 220 liters of water. "We charge by the ton" said Hussein. "And how much is it?" "It’s 1000 liters" . "Thanks, Hussein, how much does it cost?" "1800 Rufia"was the answer; that’s 120$ U.S! Of course I declined and asked Jamie of "Esper" whether they knew a cheaper source. "Sure, Hussein (a different person) will bring you potable water and the charge is 300 Rufia per ton, calculated pro rata". We took 250 liters and paid 75 Rufia. So if you need water in Male call Hussein 7777979!

Muki went to the airport to check the fate of his bag; Ishay and I went to the vegetable and fruit market. On the way we passed the fish-market and got a proof that there are fish to be caught in the Maldives.

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Once everybody came back on board, we pulled out the anchor and set a course to Gulhi in South Male atoll, 14 miles away. It was good to get away from busy Male!

We entered the channel into the bay west of the island and anchored. Gulhi is a boat building place and there were a few on shore.

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First dinner on board with the new crew. Happily I relinquished the job of the cook to Hanna and Ishay.

18.4.13 – Thursday – Last night we all went to bed early so it was no surprise when we were ready to leave at 0800 for the 21 miles leg to Dhigiri resort island.

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When we got there, Muki called the airport again and found out that his bag has arrived. Customs X Rayed it and saw the bottles of wine. Those were confiscated! The bag would be sent to Alimata island resort 3.5 miles away. We quickly motorsailed over and waited for the sea-plane with the bag. My three crew took the dinghy ashore as I got ready to photograph the event.

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                                    baggage delivery



  1. Hi Miki,
    it seems you having good time, keep on..

  2. Miki Hna nd Muki
    Great pictures. Hanna looks as if she is made for the job. Pity about the wine! following on Google Earth. Enjoy

  3. My regards to Muki and Hanna. We are holding the fort back home, digging out the galoshes and umbrellas for strongest storms in memory after Independence Day, including 2cm on Mt. Hermon.
    Watch out for the upwinds!

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