Posted by: catamarantwooceans | February 10, 2015

More Sailing in Kuna Yala – part 2

1.2.15 – Sunday – Morning in Nargana, filling water and provisioning. Lunch in Sugardup and then sailing fast to the West Holandes, 13 miles away. Waisaladup is the place Gili crowned as the most beautiful in the region, mainly because of the good reef there. Fishing with the limited portion of chicken breast Gili allotted was also limited to a small fish which was immediately put back as live bait. Just before going to bed, Yossi checked it and found out it was eaten by some creature without disturbing the rod.

2.2.15 – Monday – From Waisaladup, we motored six miles to the south to Achadup in the western Naguargandup cays. Another fantastic location…

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3.2.15 – Tuesday – The weather here is a bit crazy; yesterday there was almost no wind and today it was blowing 20 knots. We sailed to East Lemmon cay with the wind at 60 degrees from starboard. From time to time waves were breaking against the hull and as Yossi happened to look into their cabin, which is on the starboard, he was horrified to see that the hatch was not completely closed and that seawater inundated the sheets and mattresses. Once we got to the anchorage we took everything out to dry; Yossi and Ester relocated to the aft cabin. From our position we noticed the peculiar shape of a junk rigged boat; surely it is Kevin’s Amuri Mina! A nice sight taken with the new Canon SX50HS which has an enormously long lens.

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One of the things to do in East Lemmons is snorkeling the reefs. On today’s outing I noticed a spiny puffer hiding in a crevice and dived down to "talk" with it. I put my hand closer to it and when it did not object or run away, I touched its white, soft belly, stroking it gently. The fish seemed to like it, going out into the open with no fear; an irregular experience!

4.2.15 – Wednesday – Last day in the Kuna Yala. First, a visit to the harbor master and then we motored against the wind to our favorite anchorage in Chichime. Kevin and his family were there at anchor; their two kids are adorable.

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The parents of Kevin’s wife, Julia, were with them on the boat and they all came for a beer later in the evening. We were told that the family is moving to Europe where Kevin would have to get used to living in civilization.

5.2.15 – Thursday – At 0645 we left Chichime. Destination – Green Turtle Cay marina. Wind – 11-13 knots and sea slight. Trolling again, trying to kill the fishing jinx we are experiencing lately and finally succeeding!

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                                Yossi and Tuna

A visit to the Chinese mini market in Nombre de Dios was a necessity. Yogi, the marina manager, was going to his house in town to have lunch and I hitched a ride, squeezed into the front seat (the back seat was occupied) with his Rottweiler bitch which was slavering during the 15 minutes drive, luckily missing my foot. We spent a quiet night in the marina.

6.2.15 – Friday – The day dawned with grey skies and rain; we waited for a lull and went out to go to Linton. The rain came back and as all crew hid inside, the captain braved the elements. Approaching Isla Grande, where we wanted to enter the channel to Linton, we were lucky to have the clouds disperse and visibility good enough to be able to recognize and avoid the reefs and shoals.

Right on our heels came a huge Catana 59 catamaran; yachts are getting bigger and bigger!

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After lunch we went to visit the monkeys on Linton island and then went out to go the ten miles to Portobelo. Surprisingly the weather improved and we had a lovely sail, the highlight of which was the catching of a nice Mahi Mahi. Another opportunity for Gili to exercise her gourmet cooking abilities.

7.2.15 – Saturday – Out of Portobelo to go to Chagres river. An argument started between the captain and the chef; Gili was advocated trolling for fish while Miki thought we should eat the chicken we have in the freezer, thus preserving the world’s fish dwindling population. Guess who had her way… With the wind blowing at 18 knots from the starboard quarter we sailed 7-8 knots, the captain hiding a smug smile knowing it was too fast to catch a fish. Two miles to the entrance to Chagres river and it was the turn of the chef to smile. A Jack Trevally was caught.

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we entered the river, which is always beautiful and peaceful. We took the dinghy and explored the river banks, going into some side channels that led into the jungle.

In the evening Gili started working on our jack dinner. I personally do not like this fish. Gili tried her best to cook it in a tomato based spicy oriental sauce but the jack opposed all her efforts, it was tough and not very tasty. Did you ever come across a jack on a menu in a restaurant? There’s a good reason for it.

8.2.15 – Sunday – Another beautiful day in paradise. We had some visitors perching on our pulpit.

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Here’s a closer look at one of them.

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We slowly motored towards the river’s exit looking out for monkeys but seeing none. Then to Shelter Bay marina, where "Two Oceans" will stay for about two months while we go back home.

Preparing the boat is never easy; add to the regular cleaning operations the breaking down of the vacuum cleaner, the discovery that water from a yet unknown source is entering Gili’s wardrobe section and to cap it all – my cellular phone sliding from the cabin top right into the water. I’ll try to dive and find it tomorrow; at least save the SIM card.

9.2.15 – Monday – A day of hard work and exasperation; the marina staff, who led me to believe they would supply a 115 volt line for my dehumidifier came up with all sort of reasons why they couldn’t do it. Main argument was "liability" in case my unit will malfunction and, according to one of the maintenance office people, may cause a fire. They ended up bringing one of their units, for which they are going to bill me 45$ a month.

They also decided that I should pay the full amount, 260$, for the no result treatment of my autopilot system by their electrician. Being committed to staying here by the leaking fuel tank I have no choice but to pay. But they are going to lose me as a long term client once that affair is concluded. At least the pumping out of the fuel in the leaking tank was done quickly and efficiently. The actual repair would have to wait until I come back in April.

So until then – Adios from Miki and Gili on Two Oceans.


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