Posted by: catamarantwooceans | November 19, 2015

Guanaja to Cozumel Mexico

15.11.15 – Sunday – We were anchored in Sandy Bay, north of the impressive private resort built on Dumbar Rock, in the company of ‘My Love’, Fay and Mike’s catamaran, ‘Jade’, a cat from Australia and a monohull.

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Fay showed us Manati, a bar restaurant on the beach; she said it was run by a German couple and that they had free internet there. They also took laundry. Hallelujah!

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                                  Manati bar restaurant          pic by Danny

We went there, surfed the web, published the long due posts to the blog and then dinghied to town. Bonacca island is home to about three thousand people living in houses built mostly on stilts; it used to be two islands but now the dividing canal, in which you can see fish passing, is called Canal Street and is part of the united island.

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                                       Canal street – Guanaja

In the evening we went to Manati for dinner. Annette and Klaus were the perfect hosts. They lived in Honduras for the past twenty years, the last six in Guanaja. One can have German food, like Bratwurst with Spetsle and Sauerkraut (probably misspelled).Their son, Roland, has an Eco-Lodge nearby.(

16.11.15 – Monday – Heavy rain in the morning. When it stopped, we motored a small cay to the west of Bonacca, on which there was a fuel station. We filled up both diesel and water and then tied up at the municipal dock to do the formalities, in and out of immigrations and a Zarpe – the sailing permit to Mexico – at the harbor master office. When we came on Saturday there were two officials in the office; the senior instructing the junior regarding what he had to do. Now only the junior was in attendance and it quickly became obvious that the man was not up to the job. He was lacking basic computer skills and failed to produce the document. I had to intervene in a polite and friendly way and finally we made it. Junior happily gave me a high five and I had the Zarpe in hand.

In the afternoon I went over to Manati to pick up our laundry and download the latest forecast. It’ll be good to go tomorrow.

In the evening we had Fay and Mike for happy hour; they are from Vancouver Canada, bought their 40 foot catamaran two years ago and are now cruising around the Caribbean.

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17.11.15 – Tuesday -  It is about 260 miles to Cozumel so there is no point going out early if you want to get there in daylight. We took our time, visited Manati for the internet and then motored to Southwest Cay; we were told that a nice reef could be found there and Gili insisted on doing some snorkeling before we go out. We anchored on a sandy patch at 16 24.542 N 085 53.089 W and jumped in. The reef was really good, coral undamaged and quite a lot of life around and in it.

We left at 1230, rounded the western corner of Guanaja and took up a course to a point southwest of Cozumel. Wind from the east at around 18 knots, perhaps a bit of a current, and we were doing 7-8 knots over ground. It’s too early to say but we might get there before sunrise on Thursday! It was quite a bumpy ride and Gili was not feeling well, even to the point of not cooking or eating dinner.

As night fell Danny took the first watch; we had the first reef to deal with possible squalls and still sailed fast. I was washing the dishes when Danny called for second reef, the apparent wind came up to 28 knots with some rain. Once the squall passed we left the main in second reef to make the ride easier on the crew (especially Gili).

18.11.15 – Wednesday – It turned out to be a beautiful night; a half size moon lighted the scene and the skies were clear, showing millions of stars. Gili took the last watch, 0230 – 0530, bravely, trying unsuccessfully to have some of the chicken breast with Chinese noodles that the Su- Chef (moi) prepared. When morning came we opened full sail; arriving at night shouldn’t be a problem in the anchorage near the illuminated port of San Miguel, Cozumel. Fast ride continued through the day; at 2200 we passed the southern tip of the island and continued along the shore to San Miguel, the main town on the island and the place to do the check in formalities.

When the anchorage area was 2 miles ahead, we rolled the jib, turned into the wind and lowered the main. The moment it was down I happened to look aft and was surprised to see a big ferry passing quite close behind; we had no clue about its presence. A few minutes after midnight we dropped the anchor. Had a drink and got seduced by free WiFi but very quickly fatigue set in and we all went to bed.


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