14.9.2023 – Thursday – Shira and Josh left in the morning so it is only Gili and Miki on board. Before sailing back north to Teos marina, where Two Oceans would spend the winter we aimed to cruise the Gokova Korfezi, the large area east of Bodrum. Twenty plus years ago we used to sail that area on our previous catamaran, Roughsoda, we remember well the names of the bays and islands we had such good time at. So the next week is going to be a sail of nostalgy for us.
We left Cokertme and motored towards Gokova Oren marina located east of a coal power station with a very long funnel. Although it is not operating, I could see a few vessels in the water and as we came closer I could see a big travel-lift and boats on land. A sign on one of the buildings said EGE YAT and searching the web I learned that it is a boat building company.
Reaching the marina we entered and had to wait for the marineros to come and guide us to a berth.
Oren is a big marina, belonging to the Setur group and is very expensive. Alas, we needed to fill water and to do shopping and laundry. One night cost us 123 euro.
15.9.2023 – Friday – At 1000 we left the marina. The initial plan was to go Sehir islands, Castle and Snake islands, but Gili wanted to go first to Akbuk Limani where we could swim and enjoy the view. Coming into the bay we liked it so much and decided to stay the night. We anchored in one of the coves and Gili swam to tie two webbings to shore.
A swim, lunch, nap and then SUP paddling in the calm and pretty bay filled the hours until it was time for dinner. I sat in our cabin doing my meditation while Gili was working in the galley preparing the meal. Suddenly I heard her call:”We ran out of gas!”. We bought a very big gas tank in May and I thought that it would hold until the end of the season but there was no running away from the reality; the tank was depleated. I connected the spare one I have, which does not contain a big quantity and the cooking went on, but it was clear we must buy a new, local tank. Let’s see whether it would be available in Akbuk village.
Today is the eve of the Jewish new year so there was a lot of phone calls and what’s app communications with family and friends. To all who celebrate the day we wish a happy new year, good health and happiness in all aspects of life.
16.9.2023 – Saturday – I took the dinghy to the Toga restaurant to ask about the gas tank.
Toga jetty
They thought it was not available locally. The supermarket had a small gas tank used with its own one burner, not what I wanted. I called T-Marine in Oren marina, a company which does all sort of services for yachts and a lady named Aynur promised to bring a five kg tank with it regulator to Akbuk limani, ETA 1400. She arrived with the items and although the tank was only 2.5 kg and the price was a bit inflated I was relieved to have enough gas until the end of our trip. I put the new tank in the locker by 1500 and although we [planned to go to Sehir Adlari which is just 5.5 miles away, we decided to stay here one more night.
If you are in the Oren area and need any service, T Marin might help. Office phone +90 2525322997, Aynur, who speaks English, is on +90 5333832668.
17.9.2023 – Sunday – Out in the morning to Snake island. We entered the bay and dropped anchor at 3.5 meters close to the island’s jetty. The island has a few interesting ancient ruins,an old church, a well kept theater, an agora and an Apollo sanctuary. There is also an organized modern beach for the tourists. All those are connected by a wooden trail and there is a 300 TL fee to enter. We hurried going there before the wave of visitors would attack.
the theater
Two Oceans as seen from the theater
After the island tour we returned to our boat to watch the tourists invasion. Big gulets full of people entered the bay, passing frightfully close to Two Oceans on their way to the jetty and back out.
I released a lot chain to get away from their path but still it was quite horrifying. In the late afternoon the avalanche subsided and after sundown we were alone for a peaceful night.
18.9.2023 – Monday – Waking up in the morning we had to make a decision regarding the plan of the day. Three important items were on the list. We needed provisions, needed to fill our water tank and an ATM since the gas deal left me with a low cash situation. Sogut was described in the guide as having water and electricity at all jetties and a minimarket. Degirmen buku Okluk cove was supposed to have three restaurant docks plus everything Sogut had. I remembered the latter as a beautiful place so we decided to go there.
Following the shore from Sehir islands to the west is simply marvelous. The hills are covered in pines and there are many small bays and coves to choose from. One of them, called Kesr or Canak limani located west of Sogut is fjord shaped, going 600 meters into the hills. We entered it just to take a look, the temptation to stay was there but we still needed the items on the list, so turned around and went out.
We entered Degirmen buku and motored towards Okluk; as we turned into it a siren was heard and a police boat intercepted us. We knew that there was a prohibited area in the south of the bay but according to the guide Okluk itself was permitted. Actually we could see neither docks nor restaurants. We did not have to speak Turkish to understand what the policeman shouted:”YOK! YOK!” so we did a 180 and altered course to English bay on the west of Degirmen.
1 – Okluk, 2 – English
English bay runs deep into the terrain. We entered all the way to its northern part, dropped the anchor and Gili swam ashore to tie our webbing lines. Good show, Gili! So there we sat enjoying the views when the question of those important items surfaced. To cut a long story short, we decided to go to Sogut and try our luck there.
My impression based on the Heikell guide did not prepare me to what we saw as we entered the Sogut bay. The village dock was actually a long, modern floating concrete one, with berths on both sides. It was a proper marina! A harbor master showed us a berth which was probably the last one a catamaran could go into. There were water and electricity and to top it all a real good supermarket right by the dock.
I was a bit worried about the price of the berth but it turned out to be more like a gift – only 1600 tl ,about 53 euro, half of what we paid in Gumusluk.
There are two more jetties in the bay, one belongs to a restaurant and is of a lower standard, the other to the Global Sailing company, a modern one which was also almost full. Many yachts were at anchor in the deep waters of the bay.
Tomorrow we will continue our nostalgic trip, starting at a place called Kargilibuk, which, again, I have fond memories of.
TBC
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